Days 47-51 of Trip with no destination (Litchfield National Park: Marranuggu, Koongurrukun, Werat, and Waray countries)

June 27, 2022

When we learned that we would be in NT at the same time as our friends from Wooli, we jumped at the opportunity to spend some time together at Litchfield National Park, roughly 120 km south of Darwin. We had spent a little time there 21 and 11 years ago so were looking forward to having a longer stay there - five days, four nights. It is not hard to understand why Litchfield is a favourite of many people.

We set up camp at the 2WD camping spot near Florence Falls. From here it was a 150 odd stair trip down to the falls for a dip and a climb back up the stairs or a scenic easy 1km walk around the back way which didn't seem to, but must have, climbed as far back up! Florence Falls are beautiful despite the many people who visit and swim in plunge pool at their base. We visited and swam every day.

Views from a lookout above the falls

Florence Falls and plunge pool

In the evening the colours of reflections in the water were beautiful. Sometimes the water looked like liquid gold.

While it was definitely not prime flower time, there was still some floral beauty around. There was the sunshine-yellow of the Kapok tree (Cochlospermum bixaceae), the orange-red of the Red-flowered Kurrajong (Brachychiton megaphyllus), the beautiful orange of the Darwin Woollybutt (Eucalyptus miniata), and the deep pink of the Turkey Bush (Calytrix exstipulata).

I was also thrilled to see some plants I had not come across before, a White Butterfly Orchid (Dendrobium affine) growing on a cycad, Utricularia fulva (one of the carnivorous plants), Drosera dilatatopetiolaris (another carnivorous plant), and a really strange Hibbertia, Hibbertia dilatata.

Water, in the middle of what is otherwise dry savannah country, is a real feature of this park and there are some magnificent waterfalls and cascading creeks. Over our five days there, we visited many of them. One of the highlights was Tjaetaba Falls where, after a walk of approximately 1.5km you come to an infinity pool that we had all to ourselves for a while. The temperature of the water was perfect!

Although the pool at their base was still closed to swimming, Wangi Falls were still worth the visit. They really are beautiful. My photo doesn't do them justice.

The pools and creek at the base of Tolmer Falls are basically inaccessible but the view into the gorge created by the falls is worth viewing. It looks very mysterious down there, with a large cave at the base - no doubt a place of special significance to the Aboriginal people of this area.

Buley Rockhole is just upstream from Florence Falls and a cascading creek joins it and a number of other beautiful rock pools. This means that the pools are not too crowded with people and you can enjoy a good back and neck massage under the cascades!

To get to another area, the Cascades, we walked about 1.2km up through savannah country. We reached another series of plunge pools, the best of which was beneath the Curtain Falls. Just after the wet season, these falls would look amazing, if you could get to them. Downstream of the falls you walk through rainforest which was quite muddy and still oozing water underfoot.

Above: Curtain Falls Below: The rainforest surrounding the Cascades

The last water spot we visited was Walker Creek where I enjoyed what will be the last of the NT water fun for a bit.

There were other highlights in Litchfield. One was the Lost City. Although I've heard that there are 'better' ones in other places, I loved this part of the park. It really does look like the ruins of an ancient civilisation.

The other highlight was seeing what has been called the Termite Mound Graveyard. We didn't go to the Magnetic Termite Mounds at the Batchelor end of the park, but on the way out heading to Berry Springs we just caught sight of this wonder. We had heard about it, but there are no signposts. I don't even know if it is officially in the national park or not. Bear in mind that most of these mounds are taller than most people and are, apparently, approximately 100 years old.

Of course no visit to any National Park is complete without enjoying some of the fauna. I saw a Greater Bowerbird for the first time and managed to find some lovely butterflies and dragonflies, some of which are pictured below.

Greater Bowerbird